Hermes authentication guide: how to verify a pre-owned Hermes bag
Hermes authentication is the process of verifying a pre-owned Hermes handbag by examining its blind stamp, craftsman stamp, stitching technique, leather quality, hardware, and construction details against the brand's known standards. Hermes bags are the most valuable handbags on the secondary market, retaining an average of 138% of their retail value (Rebag Clair Report, 2025). A Birkin 25 in popular colours can resell for $25,000-$35,000 or more, making authentication essential before any transaction.
Hermes was founded in 1837 by French-German harness-maker Thierry Hermes. Originally known for leather equestrian creations, the Parisian house introduced its first handbag in 1922. By the 1950s, a photograph of Princess Grace Kelly carrying a Hermes bag brought international fame, and the brand later named the bag in her honour. Nearly 200 years later, Hermes still handcrafts each bag individually in its leather goods ateliers. That level of craftsmanship creates consistent, verifiable markers that authenticate genuine pieces from counterfeits.
6 steps to authenticate a Hermes bag
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Decode the blind stamp. Hermes uses a "blind stamp" (a small, stamped letter inside the bag) to indicate the year of manufacture. The stamp combines a letter of the alphabet with a surrounding shape that identifies the era. These stamps are intentionally hard to find. Tip: start by identifying the shape, then match the letter.
Period Shape around letter Letters used 1945-1970 No shape A through Z 1971-1996 Circle A through Z 1997-2014 Square A through R Late 2014-present No shape T onward
A blind stamp that doesn't follow this system, or one that's poorly stamped or positioned in an unusual location, is a strong indicator of a counterfeit. - Examine the saddle stitching. Hermes uses a hand-stitching technique called "sellier" (saddle stitch), where two needles pass through the same hole from opposite sides. This creates a diagonal stitch pattern that's distinctly different from machine stitching. Each stitch angles slightly to the left. Machine-sewn counterfeits produce perfectly straight, uniform stitches. The thread is waxed linen, and the stitch count should be consistent throughout the bag. Run your finger along the stitching: it should feel slightly raised and even.
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Test the leather quality and type. Hermes sources its leathers from around the world. Each leather has a distinct texture, weight, and grain that authenticators can identify. The most common leathers are:
Leather Texture Durability Common bags Togo Soft, pebbled grain Very durable, scratch-resistant Birkin, Kelly Clemence Slouchy, matte pebbled Durable but softens over time Birkin 35+, Lindy Epsom Rigid, embossed grain Lightweight, scratch-resistant Kelly, Constance Swift Smooth, fine grain Delicate, shows scratches Birkin, Kelly (seasonal) Box Calf Smooth, glossy Develops patina over time Kelly, vintage pieces Barenia Smooth, untreated Rich patina development Special orders Evercolor Textured, less grainy than Epsom Scratch-resistant Kelly, Picotin
Exotic skins carry additional blind stamp symbols: a square for alligator, two dots (..) for Niloticus crocodile, a caret (^) for Porosus crocodile, and a dash (-) for lizard. Crocodile hides take up to a decade to prepare before use. Counterfeit exotics often have overly uniform scale patterns and lack the natural irregularity of genuine skins. -
Inspect the hardware details. Hermes hardware is made from palladium, gold-plated metal, or rarer finishes like brushed gold, rose gold, or ruthenium. Genuine hardware should never peel, flake, or wear through to a different colour underneath. Key hardware checks:
- Zipper: An authentic Hermes zipper stays parallel to the zipper line at all times. If it hangs downward or forms a 90-degree angle, it's a counterfeit. Newer zippers are marked "HERMES" in uppercase.
- Lock and keys: The lock is engraved "Hermes" in a clean, crisp font. The number on the lock matches the number on both keys. Watch for commonly counterfeited lock numbers: 121, 212, and 102. Exotic skin bags should have locks covered in matching material.
- Clochette: The key holder (clochette) should be made from a single piece of leather, not two pieces stitched together.
- Hardware plate: Always engraved "Hermes-Paris" with neat, evenly spaced lettering. The metal should never fade or change colour.
- Verify the craftsman stamp. In addition to the blind stamp, each Hermes bag carries a craftsman's stamp: a small letter or set of initials identifying the individual artisan who made the bag. This stamp is typically found near the blind stamp. Each Hermes bag is made by a single artisan from start to finish, and that artisan handles all repairs on that specific bag. Counterfeit bags often lack a craftsman stamp entirely, or show one that doesn't match known Hermes artisan stamps.
- Buy from a certified reseller or use professional authentication. Given that genuine Hermes Birkins and Kellys routinely sell for $10,000-$100,000+, professional authentication is not optional. Services like Entrupy provide AI-powered verification. At Retyche, every Hermes bag undergoes our 30-point inspection and Entrupy verification, covering blind stamps, craftsman stamps, stitching, leather analysis, hardware, and construction. Buyers can add an official Entrupy certificate for $75 CAD at checkout. We carry authenticated Hermes bags in our Hermes collection.
Hermes Birkin sizes
| Model | Width | Height | Depth |
|---|---|---|---|
| Birkin 25 (B25) | 25 cm | 18 cm | 12 cm |
| Birkin 30 (B30) | 30 cm | 22 cm | 15 cm |
| Birkin 35 (B35) | 35 cm | 23 cm | 16 cm |
| Birkin 40 (B40) | 40 cm | 28 cm | 18 cm |
| Birkin 45 (B45) | 45 cm | 30 cm | 20 cm |
| Birkin 50 (B50) | 50 cm | 32 cm | 24 cm |
| Birkin 55 (B55) | 55 cm | 34 cm | 25 cm |
| Birkin Cargo | 40 cm | 28 cm | 16 cm |
Hermes Kelly sizes
| Model | Width | Height | Depth |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kelly 15 (Micro) | 15 cm | 11 cm | 5 cm |
| Kelly 20 (Mini) | 20 cm | 16 cm | 10.5 cm |
| Kelly 25 | 25 cm | 19 cm | 9 cm |
| Kelly 28 | 28 cm | 22 cm | 10 cm |
| Kelly 32 | 32 cm | 23 cm | 10.5 cm |
| Kelly 35 | 35 cm | 24 cm | 12 cm |
| Kelly 40 | 40 cm | 28 cm | 16 cm |
| Kelly 50 | 50 cm | 34 cm | 25 cm |
| Kelly 55 | 55 cm | 36 cm | 25 cm |
| Kelly Pochette | 22 cm | 13 cm | 7 cm |
| Kelly Cut | 31 cm | 13 cm | 2.5 cm |
Hermes hardware finishes
| Finish | Description | Rarity |
|---|---|---|
| Palladium (silver-tone) | Tarnish-resistant, sleek modern look | Common |
| Gold-plated | Classic, timeless, warm tone | Common |
| Rose gold-plated | Softer, more delicate contrast | Rare |
| Brushed gold | Matte, subdued gold finish | Moderate |
| Brushed silver | Matte silver finish | Moderate |
| Ruthenium | Dark metallic, gunmetal finish | Rare |
| Permabrass | Warm antique gold, fade-resistant | Newer option |
Hermes colour guide by category
Hermes offers over 200 colours spanning neutrals, warm tones, and vibrant hues. Colours are updated seasonally, with some retired and new shades introduced each year. Here are the most popular and recognizable colours:
| Category | Key colours |
|---|---|
| Neutrals | Noir (black), Etoupe (taupe), Gold (warm tan), Gris T (gray), Craie (chalk white), Nata (cream) |
| Browns | Cognac, Chocolate, Chai, Fawn, Sienna |
| Reds | Rouge H (deep red), Rouge Casaque (bright red), Bordeaux (burgundy), Poppy |
| Oranges | Orange (signature Hermes), Capucine, Tangerine |
| Pinks | Rose Shocking, Rose Tyrien, Framboise (raspberry), Rose Azalee, Rose Poudre |
| Blues | Bleu Jean (denim), Bleu Saphir (sapphire), Bleu Nuit (navy), Bleu Izmir (turquoise) |
| Greens | Vert Anis (bright green), Vert Tilleul (light green), Olive, Cypress |
| Purples | Anemone, Violet, Fuchsia, Lilas |
| Grays | Gris Perle, Gris Mouette, Etain, Beton |
Colour impacts resale value significantly. Neutral colours (Noir, Etoupe, Gold, Craie) sell fastest and retain the highest value. Seasonal or bold colours may take longer to sell but can command premium prices from collectors seeking specific shades.
Frequently asked questions
How can I find the blind stamp on my Hermes bag?
The blind stamp is intentionally difficult to spot. On a Birkin, check below the front flap on the left side of the strap, near where the strap meets the body of the bag. On a Kelly, look under the front flap near the turn-lock hardware. Use a magnifying glass and good lighting. The stamp is small, typically 2-3mm, and stamped directly into the leather without ink.
Can Hermes bags really sell for more than retail?
Yes. Hermes Birkins and Kellys in popular colours and sizes frequently sell for 138% of their retail value on average (Rebag Clair Report, 2025). Limited edition or exotic skin Birkins can sell for 2-5x retail at auction. In 2024, Christie's sold a Himalaya Birkin for over $400,000. Standard leather Birkin 25s in Noir or Etoupe routinely resell for $25,000-$35,000 against a retail price of approximately $13,000-$16,000.
What is the difference between Birkin Sellier and Birkin Retourne?
Sellier is the structured version with visible exterior stitching and sharp edges, giving a more formal appearance. Retourne is the relaxed version where the leather is stitched inside-out and then turned right-side-out, hiding the stitching and creating a softer silhouette. Sellier commands a slight premium on the resale market because it's considered more difficult to produce and more elegant for formal occasions.
How long does it take to make a single Hermes Birkin?
A single Hermes Birkin takes approximately 18-24 hours of hand-work by one artisan, spread across multiple days. Each artisan is responsible for the bag from start to finish, including cutting the leather, saddle-stitching, assembling the hardware, and performing quality checks. This is why production is limited and waitlists exist. Hermes employs around 5,800 leather goods artisans across its ateliers.
Where can I buy an authenticated pre-owned Hermes bag in Canada?
Retyche carries authenticated pre-owned Hermes bags, including Birkins, Kellys, and other coveted models. Every Hermes bag passes our 30-point inspection and Entrupy verification covering blind stamps, craftsman stamps, stitching, leather, and hardware. Buyers can add an official Entrupy certificate for $75 CAD at checkout. Free shipping in Canada on orders over $500. Browse our Hermes collection.